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May 11th 2008.The things they say about Germany are true. It’s organized, it’s clean,
it’s well-run. Public transport is frequent, cheap and punctual. Beer and sausages are frequent, cheap and delicious.
But Berlin, being Berlin, will let you escape from all of that. Twice weekly, to be exact, and the place to head for
is the Maybachufer. “Ufer” is German for “bank”, and the market is held on the bank of the Landwehr canal. The nearest
U-Bahn station is Kottbusser Tor and the area is known affectionately to Berliners as “little Istanbul”.
The Maybachufer market is very, but not only, Turkish. It is the perfect antidote to supermarket shopping and you do
it best like this, Berlinsider-style. First, get yourself something to eat - on the hoof. To be recommended are the fried
Turkish flatbreads filled with a mixture of cheese, spinach and potatoes which will set you back one euro 30.
They are perfectly square and are served in a square paper bag of exactly the same size slit down two sides so you can eat with
ease. Alternatively, go for the west-African cooking and get yourself a big bowl of spicy rice and fried plantains for
under three euros. There’s even an organic ice-cream stall if you still have room and a scoop costs 80 cents.
Next, you eat and walk and look. Compare prices: ridiculously cheap with ridiculously cheaper is what you can generally
expect to find. A kilo of market cucumbers for about the price of single one in the supermarkets. And irregularly-shaped
as well, with a taste like cucumbers ought to have.
You’ll see fruit and vegetables, fresh fish and meat, and delicatessen
counters with houmous, cheese-based dips, Greek and Turkish cheeses and different Turkish breads. One of the best Turkish
breads is a white, flat, round airy “Fladenbrot” which is so popular it has almost become a German staple.
You’ll also find fashion, shoes (the latest trends for 10 euros a pair), fabrics and everything for the household, especially
the Turkish household, including small Turkish tea glasses for the traditional strong, sweet tea.
The Maybachufer market has been around for 40 years and although it attracts tourists it’s not there solely for tourists.
It’s there for families to do their weekly shopping so there’s no hard sell and no inflated prices. It’s a relaxed, friendly,
busy place with lots of atmosphere and great food.
And the trick, once all your shopping is done, is to take a well-earned rest. Walk over to one of the cafes next to the canal.
Berlinsider’s favourite in the heat is a Radler or Alsterwasser – beer topped up with lemonade. Berlinsider’s companion winced
at the violence done to beer by adding lemonade to it, and went for a solid German wheat beer. Perfect for washing down all
that good Turkish food.
The Maybachufer market takes place every Tuesday and Friday, from about 11 until 6.30. On a Berlin Exploring holiday,
Friday is your free day and this is one of the places we recommend you visit.
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